You can see in the smoke generated video that it matches the airflow simulation as anticipated. If you want to see some test results for the Bullseye check out my Youtube channel Bullseye Playlist.
These are structural parts and need to be strong, especially the mounting points. Could add it with slicer. For the old v2 bases without the nut capture fasteners are as follow: You'll need to replace the short 3mm stock front screw with a 3mm x 25mm socket head screw.
Re-use one of your short 3mm screws from stock fan base if you are using the Stock Fan Duct. Seems it's readily available at the hardware store To mount the duct to the base I used 3mm x 8mm socket head screws. Since none of this mount touches the hot or cooling end of the Micro Swiss or stock hot end you could print this with PLA.
This mod incorporates 2 separate, enlarged plenums with a balance port in between. The balanced port adjusts the positive pressure within each duct to produce a balanced airflow from each out-port.
It is designed for. Files have the Dualfan in the name and will fit the corresponding bases. Dualfan should be used with a Volcano Hotend for best performance. It is adjustable by 10mm so it should fit a lot of dial gauges.
It tucks the dial gauge right close to the X rail and really works well. Added 1mm height adjustment to ducts. Files are at the bottom of the files page. I will be moving them to their own page once all testing is done. You can see it here. I reviewed my files and they were right.
I have adjusted those files and they are uploaded. Sorry about that. I've designed a whole set of mounts for this as well. If you need parts for this visit the page at I took these differences and combined them into 1 base mount that will work for both. I added a breakaway airflow deflectors in the bottom of the combined base to accommodate the Tornado Hotend.
Modified screw holes for positioning around ABL devices and enlarged them so you can use 3mm screws. Changed length of the wire strain option and reinforced the neck. A member on Thingiverse did a mod of my Petsfang Duct to cut the 90 degree edges on the front of the Petsfang. I realized his mod had changed the volume and could otherwise affect the airflow.Taper measurement using gage balls
Static pressure ducting can flow around 90 degree angles in the plenum because there is no significant airflow speed in the plenum just static air pressure being regulated by the outlets. For those of you that wanted the Petsfang Duct without the harsh 90 degree corners and harsh interior corners, I redrew the duct to accomplish this.
Because it lost a lot of volume doing this you will notice the duct is about 5mm taller and 3mm wider front to back to gain back this volume. You make your own choice. Some say it looks better. Some like the shorter. I will leave both STL files up. It prints in the same orientation as the original. The Petsfang is my design but I couldn't have prototyped all the mods without the help from, Cappy De, Tarek Delbridge, Silvio Garieri, Pemic, Richard Thomas, David Cruz, Davey Wavey, Joel Adams, Josh Ferri among others who spent hundreds of combined hours beta testing my designs to ensure it's superior results and fitment on multiple platforms.
I can't thank them enough.The Ender 3 is one of the most popular printers of with a very large user base available online at websites like Reddit, Facebook, and Youtube, all filled with resources which help to improve the experience for a new user or an experienced hobbyist.
New design features improve upon the wildly successful Ender 3 model 3D printer. Improvements to the Y axis improve stability, and the alteration of the control box unit move the fan to the bottom of the unit, no longer under the print bed. Our all new magnetic bed surface for easy model removal is included stock on the Ender 3 Pro. Easily remove the magnetic print surface from the hotbed and remove models with no spatula or razor necessary.
The brand name Meanwell power supply delivers more power with a stable output ensuring the temperature fluctuations are minimized, especially during long and intensive prints. Heat the hotbed faster and to higher temperatures before making the Ender 3 Pro a much better option for printing ABS and other high temperature high strength filaments. Silly me. When you started talking about the extra parts I was wondering where to buy them.
Great production quality and content. Audio levels, lighting, camera angles, close ups are very good. Thumbs up and subscribed. I would love to see a dual extruder mod with this. Printing out a water soluble filament for its supports would be a game changer.
Awesome Video, its great to be able to print some useful mods for this printer, keep up the good work we all appreciate it. This is great, thanks Vlad : Something to point out is how important is to upgrade t he firmware too, so maybe you could do a tutorial about that, how to install a bootloader, flash a new firmware and make sure the thermal runaway protection is active.
Hey man, thanks for the videos. Really helped me set up my printer. First 3d printer for me, and I'm getting quality prints right off the rip. Thank you very much in helping me make my decision. I'm a newbie and I'll definitely be going with the Ender3. Share this page close. Just Vlad. Download video Download mp3. Creality Ender 3 Pro - 3D Printer Just Vlad photo. Reality Ender 3 Spasibo za video. Those nails Bro :O thanks for the vid tho .Creality's Ender 3 is a good budget 3D printer and rightfully popular, but I guess everyone owning it can confirm:.
This guide will show you how to use 12V parts in a 24V print, replace the fans and install a new duct for part cooling from both sides. Big thanks to Noctua for providing me with some of their high-end silent fans and 2print3D for sending me an new board after the Y-Driver died on mine unrelated to this project!
For this guide, I used the BantaMount Beta from bantam. Dual 40mm Fans is used from here on, if you choose something else or Blower fans, adjust accordingly. I used Noctua fans for this project, because they are well-known to be almost inaudible and a silent printer was the ultimate goal here for me.
Their OmniJoin Adapter Kit that comes with the FLX versions of the fans saves us time by reducing the required soldering points and lets us use a regular fan plug, so we dont have to modify the Noctua fans them self. The Ender 3 runs on 24V, but our fans are only rated for 12V. The Noctua fans have a 3-Pin connector, but our Ender board uses 2-Pin fan sockets. The first problem can be overcome by implementing Step Down modules, which convert our 24V source to and 12V output by adjusting them correctly.
The second one is just solved by simply cutting and reusing the original connector. You might be able to source fitting 24V fans too, but they tend to be noisy. I also used 40x10 fans for the part cooling, but some headroom for more airflow by using the 40x20 instead might come in handy. But so far, my 40x10 seem to be enough too. If you have them already, use them.
If not, buy 40x20 instead. Did you use this instructable in your classroom?
Ender 3 Upgrade
Add a Teacher Note to share how you incorporated it into your lesson. To really make a difference, you will need to have ether Nema Stepper Dampers or a Silent Board installed. Its really to no use if you make your fans silent, but the stepper motors sing their song all the time you are printing.
Stepper dampers are dirt cheap, but you might need to buy heatsink and print new mounts too. You cant put one on your extruder or Z-Stepper, so retraction and Z-Hop is still pretty loud.You can see in the smoke generated video that it matches the airflow simulation as anticipated.
If you want to see some test results for the Bullseye check out my Youtube channel Bullseye Playlist. These are structural parts and need to be strong, especially the mounting points. Could add it with slicer. For the old v2 bases without the nut capture fasteners are as follow: You'll need to replace the short 3mm stock front screw with a 3mm x 25mm socket head screw. Re-use one of your short 3mm screws from stock fan base if you are using the Stock Fan Duct.
Seems it's readily available at the hardware store To mount the duct to the base I used 3mm x 8mm socket head screws. Since none of this mount touches the hot or cooling end of the Micro Swiss or stock hot end you could print this with PLA. This mod incorporates 2 separate, enlarged plenums with a balance port in between.Short story of zamboanga
The balanced port adjusts the positive pressure within each duct to produce a balanced airflow from each out-port. It is designed for. Files have the Dualfan in the name and will fit the corresponding bases. Dualfan should be used with a Volcano Hotend for best performance. It is adjustable by 10mm so it should fit a lot of dial gauges.
It tucks the dial gauge right close to the X rail and really works well. Added 1mm height adjustment to ducts. Files are at the bottom of the files page. I will be moving them to their own page once all testing is done. You can see it here. I reviewed my files and they were right. I have adjusted those files and they are uploaded.
Sorry about that.Recently I've been trying to get the best quality possible out of it, and so decided to switch to a direct drive. You can read more about it here. I wanted to spend the least amount possible - hence, buying a direct extruder such as the titan or a bmg was out of the question. I decided to use the original extruder.6 Fanduct Comparison - Tevo Tornado 3D Printer
Some might argue that it adds too much weight, but I think the glass bed will be more impactful on maximum printing speed. Also, the results I've read from other people doing it have all been great.
In parallel, I also wanted to upgrade my cooling system. I already had a petsfang, which is incompatible with the direct dive mod I chose, and being obsessed with silence I figured two blowers instead of one would enable better performance with less noise. Make sure to print all required parts before starting the build, as otherwise you will be unable to print.
Did you use this instructable in your classroom? Add a Teacher Note to share how you incorporated it into your lesson. If you search on thingiverse there are many adapters to turn the ender 3's stock extruder into a direct drive. I decided to go for this one because it fit my criteria:.
Once printed, you need to insert the two printer's sleeves into the print holes. They are very tough to fit, I eventually melted them in with my soldering iron. Finally, don't forget to print the endstop to stop the stock motor from slamming into the frame!
The next thing to do is install the dual blower part. I printed the BLTouch remixbut if you don't have one, you can print the part without the bltouch mount. Warning: unfortunately this part won't fit in perfectly with the direct drive adapter installed.
You will need to remove some plastic, or print my remix. There are two screws, but don't screw them in completely just yet, as we will need to check height after installing the hotend and nozzle. You need to cut a bowden tube to just the right length, so it can fit between the extruder and the hotend.
This is a lengthy process that should be done carefully as ensuring a fit tube will avoid clogging problems. Don't hesitate to cut the tube longer that necessary and then adjust.I own a monoprice maker select and that printer has been a never ending road of tweaking and modding to get decent prints and it still doesnt print well.
Upgrade the Ender 3 to Direct Drive and Dual Blower Fans (for Cheap)
The ender 3 on the other hand is perfect! I assembled it without tensioning the x carriage and it still gave me an amazing first print vs the tweaking I had to do on the maker select.
The aluminium extrusions give me confidence that this frame will remain true over a long time compared to the sheet metal frame and linear bearings on the maker select.Phpbb attatchment zoom/slideshow mod
The ender 3 also was able to print PETG and tpu out of the box unlike the maker select. Disregard those who say this is not an upgrade. How many companies look at what the community did with their product and then release the newer version with many of the mods already incorporated without raising the price point.
The Ender 3 is a budget printer with an output quality which rivals the Prusa for a fraction of the cost. The stock tubing and hotend on the Ender 3 pro has worked great for me with a simple setup and simple interface. No need to add fluff if it works. Get the Prusa Slicer and get to making! I've ordered this machine in order to have a second one but it is on the way to be my number one: Fast delivery, fast assembly, easy to tune, very obedient to all your slightest tuning, I feel secured with it.
It just works! After reading a lot of reviews that recommended I swap components add bearings to motors, new damping feets, etc I just order the board. By far this board is the easiest thing you can do to your Ender 3 Pro to make it slient.
Literally no motor noise or axis noise. Also the movements feel way better, smoother than before and I did notice a small increase in the print quality as well!
Overall very happy with the mod, I can now use the printer in my office room, with no issue! This looks great!!!
I just recived Ender 3 Pro couple days ago and will write review soon The best thing on it to me is flexible removable buildtac so its shame Ender 3 V2 wont have it, but all other stuff looks great and I think Im going to buy it when its out!!! Not sure what "possibleuser" is on about. These upgrades are well recieved. Note there is also a fully upgraded hot end with a fan duct to cool the filament on extrusion.Cmake vulkan example
The Creality Ender 3 Pro is my first 3D printer. I purchased it as I have previously 'played' with CAD packages and been frustrated at not being able to physically handle the fruits of my labour. I saw this purchase as move from imagination to reality or Creality. I was not disappointed. With only the instructions from the box It took me about 2 hours to build, I definitely think I could have managed it quicker but I was working on other things in parallel.
I powered the unit up, mounted some filament, inserted the SD card, selected the dog model and hit print.Posted in 3D Printers.
Ender 3 Duct Fan
Hello Guys! I had different experience than him, and the fans did make a difference in my prints.
I wondered if these guys with the larger fans are getting any real good use out of them, or if it was just a sham.
I decided to purchase some fans, and try the upgrade. It also requires you to use the Hero Me 2 base and fan mount, since you cannot install a on the stock hotend fan covers. The first thing you want to do if you are planning to perform this upgrade is to attempt and print out the Hero Me base and Fan Mounts. Once you are happy with your Hero Me 2 mount, you can move on to ordering the fans you need for the mount that you printed out.
I purchased a two pack to have a spare for the future, or if I decided to upgrade to dual fans. Below is a link to the two pack 24V fans. Once your fans have arrived and you are ready to make your installation, you will disable the printer by turning off power.
Disassemble your hot-end fan shroud by removing the 4 bolts in the part cooling fan, and then you remove the two round head bolts holding the fan shroud to the gantry. Once the cover is loose, you will need to remove the 4 bolts inside the hot end shroud to take the hot-end fan loose. Next you will have to install the Hero Me 2 base piece make sure your base lock or ABL mount is in placeit will slide down over your gantry mount plate, make sure you are careful of your wiring.
Once the base is mounted, you can install your hot-end fan to the base with your 4 bolts. One hint I will share is to improve the strength of your strain relief for your wiring is to find a small piece of hose that is close to the size of your wires, cut a slit in it and put around the wires before you zip-tie them like below. This will prevent your wires from spinning in the strain relief. Now you will have to decide if you are going to remove all the shielding from your cables and lengthen the fan cables, or take the easier route and cut the yellow and blue wires near the old fan.
I installed the fan with some M3 bolts, and began my test prints. I will say that some profiles will take some tweaking to get back printing, I had to adjust how soon the fan went to maximum and I also reduced the maximum. I will share my Cura cooling profile below for you to try if you are running into problems. Great write up found it useful.
But the stock fan was working just fine before so any advise will be welcome.
6 Easy 3D printed upgrades for the Creality Ender 3
Did you wire it up to the same place as your previous fan? And did you make sure you ordered the 24V fans? Otherwise, you will need custom firmware and then you can modify in the firmware configuration the setting listed below:. Your email address will not be published. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Posted in 3D Printers 3 Comments. Leave a Reply Cancel reply Your email address will not be published.
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